When Miles Davis Met Juliette Gréco
A new film revisits Miles Davis and Juliette Gréco’s Paris romance—a brief affair in 1949 that became a lifelong attachment.
The Mohicans of Place Maubert
Who would imagine, walking along the Boulevard Saint Germain and through Place Maubert today, that this genteel corner of the Latin Quarter once had such a reputation? The place and its neighbouring streets were known for drinking dens and a criminal underworld.
Rediscovering Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun in the Sentier
Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun was Marie Antoinette’s favourite painter—and the artist behind a portrait that scandalised Paris. Her fame followed her through twelve years of exile, as she painted her way around Europe. Part of her Paris home still survives in the Sentier.
Miles, Juliette and My Local Bar
For one night on 28 October, 1940s Saint-Germain-des-Prés came to rue Maître-Albert, my street in the 5th arrondissement.
The Edges of Paris: A History of the City’s Walls
In medieval times, Paris was a walled city, but did you know that it remained essentially so until the 1920s?
Zamor: From Court “Plaything” to Revolutionary
An enslaved child brought to Versailles, Zamor grew up in Madame du Barry’s household and later testified against her during the Revolution. Generations of writers condemned him as an ungrateful betrayer. Discovering that he had lived and died in my street made me question that verdict.
A Shoe Shine and a Place in History
A shoe shiner and his customer became two of the first people ever photographed. Almost two centuries later, Paris has marked their spot—but their identities remain a mystery.
The Lives Behind the Landscapes at the Musée Marmottan Monet
At the Musée Marmottan Monet, the stories behind the landscapes lead from a painter’s return from Verdun to Mondrian’s experiments with abstraction.
Where Wagyu Sizzles and Sashimi Shines
There’s a little theatre to dinner at Azabu, and the surprises aren’t all on the plate.
Pondering on the New Paris at the Musée Marmottan Monet
Half an hour west of the centre, La Muette felt like a very different Paris.
Kokoro: Quenelles, Girolles and Good Wine
At this tiny restaurant, getting to know the chef is part of the pleasure.
Rue de la Harpe: the Ancient Street Swallowed Up by Haussmann
If you stand with your back to Boulevard Saint-Germain and look down Rue de la Harpe, the contrast is striking.
What Is a Faubourg—and Why Are There So Many in Paris?
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