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When Miles Davis Met Juliette Gréco
November 6, 2026
Paris Stories
When Miles Davis Met Juliette Gréco
November 6, 2026
Paris Stories

A new film revisits Miles Davis and Juliette Gréco’s Paris romance—a brief affair in 1949 that became a lifelong attachment.

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November 6, 2026
Paris Stories
The Mohicans of Place Maubert
November 5, 2026
Paris Stories
The Mohicans of Place Maubert
November 5, 2026
Paris Stories

Who would imagine, walking along the Boulevard Saint Germain and through Place Maubert today, that this genteel corner of the Latin Quarter once had such a reputation? The place and its neighbouring streets were known for drinking dens and a criminal underworld.

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November 5, 2026
Paris Stories
Rediscovering Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun in the Sentier
November 4, 2026
Paris Stories
Rediscovering Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun in the Sentier
November 4, 2026
Paris Stories

Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun was Marie Antoinette’s favourite painter—and the artist behind a portrait that scandalised Paris. Her fame followed her through twelve years of exile, as she painted her way around Europe. Part of her Paris home still survives in the Sentier.

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November 4, 2026
Paris Stories
Miles, Juliette and My Local Bar
October 31, 2026
Paris Now
Miles, Juliette and My Local Bar
October 31, 2026
Paris Now

For one night on 28 October, 1940s Saint-Germain-des-Prés came to rue Maître-Albert, my street in the 5th arrondissement.

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October 31, 2026
Paris Now
The Edges of Paris: A History of the City’s Walls
October 28, 2026
The Making of Paris
The Edges of Paris: A History of the City’s Walls
October 28, 2026
The Making of Paris

In medieval times, Paris was a walled city, but did you know that it remained essentially so until the 1920s? 

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October 28, 2026
The Making of Paris
Zamor: From Court “Plaything” to Revolutionary
October 23, 2026
Paris Stories
Zamor: From Court “Plaything” to Revolutionary
October 23, 2026
Paris Stories

An enslaved child brought to Versailles, Zamor grew up in Madame du Barry’s household and later testified against her during the Revolution. Generations of writers condemned him as an ungrateful betrayer. Discovering that he had lived and died in my street made me question that verdict.

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October 23, 2026
Paris Stories
A Shoe Shine and a Place in History
October 16, 2026
Paris Now
A Shoe Shine and a Place in History
October 16, 2026
Paris Now

A shoe shiner and his customer became two of the first people ever photographed. Almost two centuries later, Paris has marked their spot—but their identities remain a mystery.

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October 16, 2026
Paris Now
The Lives Behind the Landscapes at the Musée Marmottan Monet
October 11, 2026
Paris Now
The Lives Behind the Landscapes at the Musée Marmottan Monet
October 11, 2026
Paris Now

At the Musée Marmottan Monet, the stories behind the landscapes lead from a painter’s return from Verdun to Mondrian’s experiments with abstraction.

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October 11, 2026
Paris Now
Where Wagyu Sizzles and Sashimi Shines
October 4, 2026
Paris Now
Where Wagyu Sizzles and Sashimi Shines
October 4, 2026
Paris Now

There’s a little theatre to dinner at Azabu, and the surprises aren’t all on the plate.

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October 4, 2026
Paris Now
Pondering on the New Paris at the Musée Marmottan Monet
September 25, 2026
The Making of Paris, Paris Now
Pondering on the New Paris at the Musée Marmottan Monet
September 25, 2026
The Making of Paris, Paris Now

Half an hour west of the centre, La Muette felt like a very different Paris.

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September 25, 2026
The Making of Paris, Paris Now
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View fullsize Be prepared to be amazed.  This is a familiar view, but you won't believe how the same view looked in the 1860s.  Swipe to the second photo to see - if you don't believe it's the same, look for the tower of Notre Dame just visible to the right behind
View fullsize I don't know who would fancy an address in Rue des Rats...?

Look above the blue street sign and you can still read the old name carved into the stone. This is the Rue de l’Hôtel-Colbert, in the Latin Quarter.

According to Jacques Hillai
View fullsize Dog grooming beside the Seine in 1898. Eugène Atget photographed these "tondeurs de chiens" at the port des Tuileries, near the pont de Solférino. A stool, a pair of scissors and a dog on someone’s lap: quite a different
View fullsize A pavement that did the walking for you. Visitors to the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900 could travel on an elevated moving pavement, known as the rue de l’Avenir — the street of the future. They  were right!  We walk on moving conve
View fullsize Paris once had another river running through its streets. This is the Bièvre in the 5th arrondissement, photographed by Charles Marville between 1865 and 1868. Its water served trades including tanning and dyeing, particularly around the Gobel
View fullsize The Palais-Royal is one of my favourite places for poking around. This is the Théâtre du Palais-Royal on Rue de Montpensier, with its elaborate iron staircases running up the outside.

The iron galleries and staircases were added around
View fullsize A night out in hell. This extraordinary doorway belonged to the Cabaret de l’Enfer at 53 boulevard de Clichy, photographed by Eugène Atget in September 1900.  The building is completely gone now. 

“Enter and be damned—the Ev
View fullsize The Théâtre de la Renaissance on Boulevard Saint-Martin, with its grand columns and pairs of sculpted figures supporting the balconies. It opened in 1873, adding a bit of Opéra Garnier glamour to a neighbourhood already known for
View fullsize Parisians walk every day by the massive Thermes de Cluny, Roman baths built around 100 AD, a huge landmark at the crossroads of Boulevards Saint-Michel and Saint-Germain, and now part of the Musée de Cluny, though visible from the street. 

Up
View fullsize I came across this magnificent building while exploring north of the grands boulevards.  This is the Hôtel Bony, tucked behind no. 32 rue de Trévise in the 9th arrondissement. Quite a house to find hidden away behind the street.

It was

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